Sunday, April 12, 2009

EASTER SUNDAY

May you all be filled with Christ's peace this Easter Season.

Yesterday I got to tour the local clinic operated by the Diocese of Torit. It consists of two buildings. One is office space including meds dispensary and a place where pregnant and nursing women are seen. The other building has around 16 beds and is arranged as a ward holding both men and women with curtains to separate them. All the people in the ward were of the Toposa tribe. There was a teenage boy and a man who had both been shot during a local cattle raid (rustling) by another tribe at the beginning of the week. No one was arrested and the tribe will handle this in their own fashion. Then there was the fellow who had gotten into a fight with his brother and his brother used a panga (machete) to cut his bicep. An elderly woman was coming out of an "alcohol induced coma" as the director put it. The director is kind of like a nurse and he sutured the man's bicep muscle and lanced one of the gun shot victim's wound which had become infected. I was quite impressed. He has next to NOTHING to work with.

School ended March 27 and report cards were handed out the following week. Every student in every grade is ranked against her classmates and I was helping the Kindergarten teacher average out grades and ranking the students all BY HAND. The older students left school almost immediately for home not waiting for their report cards. I watched in awe as they walked the mile from the school to the main road balancing a suitcase and books or a mattress or a small trunk on their heads without dropping a thing as they scrambled down a very steep ravine.

At the main road they wait for "buses" to come by and drive them as close to their villages as possible. One girl lives 15 hours away including a 4 hour hike up a mountain. She lives in a village that her family have lived in for well over 100 years. Her parents still grown their own grains and vegetables. Her father buys two calves each year and lets them grow to maturity. He then sells them to pay for her tuition and buys two more small calves.

About 10 days ago I went to Lokichoggio just over the border into Kenya to help with the food shopping. I had my first cold drink in 5 weeks and my first hamburger since coming to Africa. I was filled with gratitude. Even had a barber cut my hair for $3.50 American. He did a good job. Because we had a lot of food in the pickup we had to create manifest for both borders and customs. When we got to the Sudan border we had to pay a small bribe - the price of a pack of cigarettes - to the SPLA guard before he would let us through.

We all attended Holy Thursday Liturgy which was beautiful and Good Friday Liturgy. However, only one of the five sisters attended the Easter Vigil which was to have begun at 7 but started closer to 8 and lasted until 11. There were many baptisms I am told. The sister who went to the service believes that there were a few people baptized who were not supposed to be but lined up anyway.

All you nature lovers should come to visit Sudan. I showered with a frog and had a small bat in my bedroom last week. Found out he may be living under the eaves of my tukul.

Again, thank you for your prayerful support and interest in this Mercy venture.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

No Way In - No Way Out

Four days ago, the Sudan war veterans who lost a limb during the war closed the Ethiopian and Kenyan borders because they have not received their pension for four or five months. No one can drive in or out though they can walk across the borders.
The vets also stop cars and lorrys along the main roads and make the drivers park their cars and walk. Sixteen people have been killed so far because they did not do as they were told. Several groups of folks are staying at our compound because they cannot leave, even to go to the next town or village by car. Hope the food holds out.

Last week the girls showed me the Neem Tree in the courtyard. They pulled off a twig, chewed on it for a minute or two and created a toothbrush that really works. You can use the same twig for almost one week. In class they told me that some of their grandparents would cook an ostrich egg or use ostrich oil for a chest cold. They would also boil the leaves and roots of the neem tree and drink it for a headache or put the leaves on a big cut as a poltice. The tree is large and lovely and if I can smuggle some seeds in I shall but will probably have lost all my teeth by the time it grows big enough to use as a toothbrush.

I spent Friday afternoon until early evening with the girls at their compound. Some of them were practicing net ball (volley ball). One of the girls came up to me and asked me to play. I declined since it was about 98 degress and with the humidity around 110. Then she asked me why I wore funny clothes (blue slacks and a green blouse with gunboats for tennis shoes). I told her I always looked funny and that even my niece, Tara, when she was little, said I dressed "dorky." I explained that many American Sisters had not worn habits for about 30 to 35 years.

The past few evenings, after the 8pm evening supper, I sit outside until almost ten. The sky seems to hang lower here than in th U.S. The Big Dipper is right on top of you and Orion looks so protective. Because there are no town or city lights for miles and miles, you can see all the stars. It is quite beautiful. Then there is a group of birds who talk in their sleep around 2 am. They dont have anything in particular to say but they seem to enjoy the chatter. It is very soft and really lulls you back to sleep.

This coming week is the last week of the term and the girls will have their exams and return home the followig week if the roads are open.

I have met several Toposa children on my stroll through the bush. One boy had a very old bow and ten arrows of museum quality. He uses the arrows to shoot birds and to scare away wild animals from the herds. The other boy had a leather whip of sorts, also very skillfully made. The children are thin and forage for berries and seed pods from trees and bushes. We have plenty of food so I bring bread and split it up with them whenever I meet them.

One more thought. You are NEVER alone here in the bush. There is ALWAYS someone around and as an interloper, I am fair game. Birding turns into Toposaing. Actually, I am the one who is spotted by the Toposa.

Time to go visit the girls at St. Bahkita's.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

SUDAN AT LAST

SUDAN AT LAST

It took 7 weeks to the day but I finally have arrived in the village of Narus, Sudan. No one even looked at my visa when I went through the check point manned by the Sudanese People's Liberation Army (SPLA). The weather was hot but not oppressive and the landscape very much like Southern Arizona. It was beautiful.

I have my own room (tukul) with running water - but no water is running so one uses jerry cans filled with water to wash with. I eat all three meals with the two Ugandan sisters who staff the school. Sister Edvine is Headmistress and Sister Susan is the Dormitory Matron. There are 800 students, 200+ of whom live in the dorms. The school has a bevy of goats which are loosed on the school grounds after breakfast and after lunch at which time they eat ANYTHING which hits the ground. The place is close to immaculate. They could replace the seagulls that clean up after school lunches in San Francisco. Besides, you can eat the goats too.

I began teaching by helping the Kindergarten teacher three days after I got there. She has 110 children ages 5-10 not counting the 3 and 4 year old sibs of the students. They come to school so they will get two meals that they may not get at home. Anyway, I had 50 of them for two hours straight. They were delightful. They speak Toposa, Arabic and are learning English and Kiswahili. They learn Kis. because they are tested on that language when they take their tests at the end of the 8th grade. The students take the test given in Kenya and Kis. is mandatory.

Each class has a Head Girl who helps the teacher keep order in the class. They carry a small switch or twig from one of the trees and use it on their classmates if they misbehave. I only saw the head girl hit one person once and that was when I learned of this custom. The other head girl used her composition book to whop two girls on their heads until I asked her to discontinue this. She was dumbfounded. She thought there was some miscommunication. Anyway, that wasn't as bad as watching some of the smaller girls spit on the floor. They know how to count and they know their a, b, c's and they are such eager learners so I guess I can wait on the spitting.

The next day I taught a hygiene class to the 7th grade which is called class seven in Kenya, Uganda and Sudan. These girls were anywhere from 12 to 16 or 17 as the girls begin school at different ages. I thought I would get their attention with all the things that can go wrong with your health in Africa if you don't keep yourself clean so I talked about ringworm and foot rot (athlete's foot). They weren't too fazed because they know they won't die from this but I did get their attention with the Guinea Worm or Tape Worm but I did not go into any detail. I can tell I can milk this topic and all the other worms who are lying in wait for the unwary. At the end of class they wanted to know about America and they wanted me to teach them a song so I wrote the words to "I'm being swallowed by a Boa Constrictor" on the board. When they "got" the punch line they laughed and I walked out into the sub Saharan sun.

On Saturday I did some laundry and dug the dust out of my room and they went to toss my trash in the trash pile. I was wearing thongs because I was in the compound but I managed to step on a thorn tree (Acacia) thorn about 2 inches long. It went right through the thong and straight into my foot. It hurt and still hurts, but it wasn't a scorpion sting so it is minor.

Three brothers who teach at the high school and five sisters met last night for prayer and supper. We are going to try to do this every month.

I understand Sr. Marilyn Lacey's book, "This Flowing Toward Me" is in its second printing and is only in it second month of print.

Thank you for reading this blog. Remember

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Two Sundays ago we went to Mass to the Holy Ghost Father's compound which includes grammar and secondary schools - about 30 acres in all. After Mass we visited the cemetery within the grounds to pay our respects to the first 3 Mercy sisters who died in Kenya. As an added treat I got to see the grave of the sister who died from a hunting spider bite 18 months ago.
Speaking of such, the geckos are a delight to watch, especially int he chapel. They have plenty of moths to eat as there are not screens on the windows and you need to keep them open day and night because of the heat.

Those of you who were at Mercy Burlingame's Golden Jubilee Celebration last June might remember the lovely blue dress I wore. I had bought it in Nairobi in May. When I returned here I discovered this type of dress is only used as a house dress or bathrobe and so I have not worn the two I have outside the convent but I will wear it to teach in Narus, Sudan.

Yesterday I got my Sudanese visa. A truly beautiful document, only it had me as 5'2" with brown eyes and grey hair and born on Mercy Day. The passport number and photo are correct and that is all that matters. Thank God they did not ask for my weight.

You can tell I am grasping for things to write about. Politics is always a hot item here. The headlines in the "Daily Nation" say "ANNAN CALLS KIBAKI(president) AND RAILA(an MP) TO GENEVA." Former UN chief backs local tribunal but warns: Hurry up or list goes to the Hague. It has been more than a year since the election violence and there has been no prosecution of the perpetrators of election violence. Well over 1000 people were killed in the rioting and several hundred thousand displaced.

Then there is the famine. Not too many countries want to help Kenya since there has been some serious corruption in regard to the maize that was stored for just such an occurance.

Hopefully, the next blog will be from Sudan.
Thank you all for your support of this venture.










Wednesday, February 11, 2009

NAIROBI - AGAIN

Yes, it is true. I am still in Nairobi and will be here another two to three weeks. However, I have been doing some research for the nutrition class I will be teaching in Narus. Did you know that a given weight of dried caterpillars is two and one half times more nutritious than an equal amount of red meat protein wise? Or, the same weight of live and wingless termites is just about equal in protein as the same weight in red meat. Stock up! Also cow peas have the most vitamins and minerals with cassava leaves not far behind. I have eaten these veggies which are quite good.

I met with the Vicar General of the Diocese of Torit who assured me that I will be able to go to Sudan after I meet with Bishop Akio. The bishop has a diocesan meeting until the 17th of this month. He told me that the diocese of Torit is larger than the state of New York and has 15 Sisters in in and about 50 priests. Rome has asked the European orders to send their sisters to Southern Sudan. I am not sure if many will come. Time will tell.

I also had lunch with the two Maryknoll Sisters, Theresa, 73 and Madeleine, 88, who will be living very near me in the same compound. Both sisters have been in Sudan for years. They live in a semi-cloistered setting and have an extra bedroom for anyone who may wish to have a prayerful experience. Theresa does spiritual direction. They meet a real need, especially for religious and clergy. They were kind enough to share their "bitten in bed by scorpion" stories. I am going to have a cat tethered to my bed and that is final!

Two weeks ago the teachers strike was still on in Nairobi and I visited a Mercy primary and secondary school run by the Mercys. They also have an Aids/TB/Perinatal Clinic next to the school. The seconday school (high school) girls were in full uniform and the class bells were automatic so that each time the bell rang the girls would go to their next class and study and tutor each other. I was quite impressed. The school has two billy goats who keep the grass under control. The convent has several cats which keep the mice and rats at bay. A very substantial dinner is served around 1:00 each day for the girls. It was chicken and rice and veggies the day I was there.

On Sunday I hitched a ride with another sister, Sr. Goretti Rule, a good friend of Sr. Jean Evans, going up to Nakuru where the Novitiate is. Nakuru is in the Rift Valley. The convent is quite large and has a view of the lake. There are three novices and a novice mistress. The postulate is in another city and has 4 postulants. All the novices are Kenyan. I am considered an ex-patriot or ex-pat. Those who enter are in their 20's or 30's. This is a time of quiet and study for them. One of the women, Sr. Willamina, is Turkana (Northern Kenya) and was bitten by a hunting spider when she was younger. It was a harrowing tale but I am still going to Sudan.

I stayed long enough to visit Lake Nakuru, a National Park and Game Reserve. Sister Goretti Rule took me on a tour in their vehicle and we saw 6 White Rhinos. They are much bigger and less aggressive than their cousins, the Black Rhinos. We saw the delicate Lesser Flamingoes for which the lake is famous along with some less than handsome Malibou Storks. There were all types of birds and deer and hippos and Wildebeasts and Cape Buffalo and zebra and wart hogs and their families lounging around. We stopped to eat within the park and a Massai warrior stood guard to protect the diners from the baboons who are always looking for a handout. I took a few pictures which I will attempt to
bore you all with when I return.

FYI - Sr. Marilyn Lacey is preparing a show of the photos we took on our visit to Narus and Nairobi in May of last year. The exhibit will begin sometime in March and will be located at the Retreat Center in Burlingame.

Thank you again for your prayerful support. Waiting, even for the Lord, is not my strong suit but waiting is good for the soul.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Nairobi at Last

Sunday, January 25, 2009

At 5:10 am this morning I could hear the Muslim call to prayer from the nearby mosque, the birds cheering the sun up, the dog pack next door barking, and the ever present traffick all at the same time.

The Kenyans I have met have been very gracious and friendly. There are few people of European decent. Lots of Somalis and Indians.

I am staying with the Irish/Kenyan Sisters of Mercy here at Villa Maria. They are great gals and I am lucky they have taken me in. I feel as though I am at home with my family on a Sunday afternoon back in the 1950's. I've not heard this many broughes in one spot in years.

I have been here for one week and have set up a bank acct., got the cell phone up and know how to get around somewhat on my own. Since I voted for Obama I feel like a national asset here in Kenya. The people have been so excited and filled with hope. Right after he was sworn in they lit off some serious fireworks in Nairobi which we could not see because of distance. The papers are filled with news of the drought which is causing famine in some parts of Kenya but the grain (maize) that should have helped the people was horded and sold by corrupt gov't officials.

The other news is of the high number of people killed each week in accidents involving lories, motorcycles and MATATUS. A matatu is a van which seats about 12 people but usually has 15 or more in it. The drivers routinely play "chicken" with other vehicles. There are no stop signs and I have only seen two or so signals in a city of over one million. It's a game of centimeters!

Mail costs more than in the U.S. It takes about $1.30 just to mail a letter. At least the stamps are pretty. And speaking of pretty, Kenya is a most beautiful country. We are at about 5500 feet so the weather is perfect. I have not seen clouds like these anywhere else where I've traveled. Even the birds are exotic. One in particular, the Hadada Ibis, prays with me almost every morning before we go to Mass. Nairobi is a very Catholic city. There are churches everywhere and they are filled on Sundays (but not with Ibises).

I am still waiting for the bishop of the diocese where I will be living to give me the okay to go to Sudan. He had a priest from his diocese die and the diocese had to prepare the funeral that was held yesterday. The funerals tend to last 2 and 1/2 hours and then there is the burial.

The blessing rite after Mass two weeks ago is still in effect. I pray over ALL the words to the hymns and the blessing itself. I know I have not gone to Sudan alone.

Friday, January 16, 2009

On My Way

Less than 24 hours till lift off for Africa.

My community of Sisters of Mercy here in Burlingame, CA had a very moving blessing ceremony at the end of the Liturgy on Sunday, January 11, 2009. Following the Liturgy there was a luncheon in the dining room. I feel spiritually strong enough to begin this adventure - a ministry of teaching young Sudanese girls in Narus.

After I arrive in Nairobi on Sunday, Jan. 18, I will begin the process of getting an E visa for Sudan. It takes two or three weeks. I should be in Narus in early or mid February - the hottest month of the year in Southern Sudan. Kathleen